1898 wool dress
BLOOMER: a costume for women consisting of a skirt over long loose trousers gathered closely about the ankles
Plural: a : full loose trousers gathered at the knee formerly worn by women for athletics
b : underpants of similar design worn chiefly by girls and women
The term bloomer is the result of nineteenth-century American women's rights activist Amelia Jenks Bloomer. The garment was designed to allow women more freedom of movement. Bloomers were not an immediate success when they first hit mainstream women. At the start most people made fun of the progressive fashion statement or found it to be too controversial.
Bloomers became more popular towards the 20th century with the bicycling craze of the 1890s and as women became more active in sports generally. Around this time dress skirts became less full and flowed more naturally, bloomers served as flexible undergarments that moved with the lower body.
Part of the contract the Estbys agreed to required that they wear a form of bicycle skirt introduced in 1893 at the Chicago’s World’s Fair. The outfit was of a light-grey flannel with a skirt that fell several inches below the knee, leggings, and a jacket.
One major development that would endure for the next 30 years was the cage crinoline or hoop. By 1855 women of all classes (across the entire world practically) enjoyed the cage that helped carry the weight of the many petticoats it had taken in the past to support the shape of a wide skirt.
Dress forms and especially sleeves and skirts, slimmed and lengthened by late 1890s. Bodices took a rounder, fuller look at the front, this look became the pigeon breast or monobosom shape seen in the early 20th century. Necklines rose higher and were supported by boned collars.
The in 1876-78 the long line cuirass bodice appeared. This reached to the hips in all its molded, whale-boned glory.
Type of 1890s bicycle outfit
1895 day dress
Leg O’ Mutton, Melon, Gigot and Balloon were a few of the names given to this sleeve
1870-1880 silk dress
Between 1870-1880 the hoop went from circular to oval and a bustle was added to accent the back. The shoulders were reduced in shape for a more natural look.
The design of 1880 dress was a modest, stuffy look. A tight corset was worn under long boned bodices, the sleeves were tight, and the necklines high. Popular demand brought back the bustle, now worn lower. Skirts were often layered, draped, and pleating was everywhere.
Fabrics were heavier (velvet, satin and wool) though cotton and linen were used for summer. Colors were darker with bottle green, deep wine, navy blue and black.
In 1890 sleeves grew bigger than ever and the hourglass shape of the 1830 was revived. Skirts took a flared, circular shape and the bustle was replaced by a tiny pad. The folds at the back of the skirt remained until 1900. The small, boned bodice waist were emphasized with a point in front.
The fashion of this era related directly to the image of women. As the century advanced women’s ensembles became more and more complex but there was eventually an opening for other selections. The skirts widened, the shoulders got puffier, and the fabrics firmer. There were some variances over the years, skirts hems were raised to the ankle and then brought back to the floor, sleeves went from mammoth to fitted, necklines were broadened and then made high.
1880s Victorian dinner dress
1806-1810 cotton dress
1866 gown - with cage
For daytime ware, women wore high necklines and fitted sleeves with pleated or ruffled cuffs at the wrists. For the evening, it was the three-quarter length sleeves with a square neckline.
In 1876 the bustle foundation disappeared and a very small hoop was worn, designed to keep the fabric away from the feet.
The Story of Helga Estby - Fashion